Kilimanjaro, the highest freestanding mountain in the world, stands at an elevation of 5,895m. Sure, it’s smaller than Everest, but it’s no joke. As Africa’s biggest mountain, it’s one of the traditional Seven Summits – the highest peak on each of the world’s continents – which makes it a popular objective for adventure mountaineers. And its reputation as being one of the least technical 5,000m+ peaks also make it a draw for keen hikers and charity challenges. For many, it's the experience of a lifetime.
Before I climbed Kili back in 2015, I had no previous climbing experience. I’d been camping a few times, but nothing serious, and never on top of a mountain. From my research I’d read Kili could be compared to a long walk uphill, with little technical climbing skills needed: just sheer determination, a moderate level of fitness, and of course, luck that you don’t get side effects from the altitude.
My experience of taking on the highest mountain in Africa wasn’t too bad, apart from the vicious sunburn coupled with frostbite at the summit on Christmas Day. But there are certainly a few things I wish I had known before climbing.
As crazy as it might sound, looking back now, my success in climbing Kilimanjaro was largely dictated by the route I chose. In fact, if you do a little research you can see the average success rate for each route.
The price of taking each one is marginally different; but essentially, the longer you go, the higher the success rate. This is because you’re giving your body more time to acclimatise without putting it under too much stress. Of course, the longer you spend on the mountain, the more expensive your trip is likely to be in terms of overall cost.
When I first did my research into climbing Kilimanjaro, I was naive to the fact there were so many routes to choose from: seven in total. I took the 7-day Machame route (although there is a 6-day version too). This happened to be one of the most popular routes up Kilimanjaro, since it has around an 80% success rate.
For me, it was ideal. I wouldn’t have wanted my trip to be any longer or shorter, since this could have influenced whether or not I suffered from altitude sickness and made it to the summit.
However, you also have the Lemosho, Marangu, Rongai, Shira, Northern Circuit and Umbwe routes. Each has a different level of difficulty, with some being as short as 5 days, leaving little time for acclimatisation (and the lowest success rates as a result).
Ultimately, the route you choose comes down to your budget and preferences, but bear in mind that longer routes give more time for your body to adjust and acclimatise to the mountain, giving you a better chance of actually reaching the summit.
On average you are walking for between 5 and 8 hours a day, and on the summit day from 10 to 12 hours depending on the route you choose. The cooks and guides on your team need you to eat to help replenish calories and keep energised.
Eating a lot like this isn’t always easy when you start to ascend, as altitude tends to reduce your appetite. In addition, you need to be drinking a lot of water. As inconvenient as it is to keep needing the loo, you need to stay hydrated. This is where electrolytes will come in handy too.
Some people had fancy Camelbak-type reservoirs for their water but I did find it fine with just a large bottle, plus an insulated one for summit day so it didn’t freeze. Just ensure your bottle holds enough water for the day. You’ll need to drink 2 to 2 and a half litres a day in total.
Bleary-eyed at midnight, the icy wind slams against your tent as you hear your guide’s voice awakening you to start your final day’s hike to the summit of Kilimanjaro. It’s by no means easy: lack of sleep, sub-zero temperatures and altitude all work against you.
Every step feels like five, almost as if you are moonwalking, but with so many other trekkers around you, a stream of headtorches all walking to a shared objective makes it feel so special and magical.
I have to say, compared to climbing the rest of Kili, the summit was indeed the hardest, as was the way down, due to the steep drops and loose stones. I slipped and fell often.
The expedition porters will always start to climb ahead of you, so they can put your luggage away and set up camp well in advance before you get there. The speed these guys climb is unmatched, and they often do it in flip-flops. And unlike you, they’re not doing this for fun – it’s their job and their livelihood.
Despite that, they don’t complain, they all have a very positive mindset and were one of my main sources of motivation when I was climbing. I had all the gear and no excuse.
Depending on your route, you might have to negotiate the Barranco Wall. This is the most technical section of the climb, which I personally found to be pretty terrifying.This part involves a lot of rock scrambling, and with one wrong foot, you could find yourself falling. But your guide is always there to help you and catch you, which ensures that most people can easily manage this part of the Machame route. But your guide is always there to help you and catch you, which ensures that most people can easily manage this part of the Machame route.
One of the most impressive aspects I found when climbing was all the different climate zones you pass through. It almost felt as if you were climbing multiple different mountains sandwiched into one.
In fact, there are five different and distinct climate zones you pass through on the way to the summit. The first is the Cultivation Zone, mainly consisting of regular villages and farmland at 2,600ft to 5,900ft. Next is the Rainforest Zone at 5,900 to 9,200 ft, followed by the Heath and Moorland Zone at 9,200 to 13,100 ft; the Alpine Desert Zone at 13,100 to 16,400 ft, and finally the Summit Zone at 16,400 to 19,341 ft.
Inevitably, changes in climate and weather means you’ll also need to change your clothes. You need to be prepared to deal with heat, cold and wet, sometimes in quick succession, without overpacking and carrying too much weight. The secret to success is effective layering.
Less is more when it comes to packing for Kilimanjaro – remember, you’ve got to carry it. That being said, you don’t want to arrive unprepared (though you can rent anything you need when you get to Tanzania as a backup).
Here’s a list of recommended clothing and equipment to take to Kilimanjaro, with a few examples.
Before I climbed Kili, I had little to no experience of mountain life. My training consisted of long walks at a slight elevation. I also climbed Kili alone as a solo woman. Most people I met were part of other, larger groups, but thanks to my guide, I never felt like I wasn’t part of a team.
Climbing Kili was hard, but not in physical terms, more for mental reasons. The scenery is amazing, but the seemingly endless hours of walking become a repetitive mental challenge, with the altitude making everything feel slower and more difficult.
That being said, I did make it to the summit, with the help of my guide, one step at a time, following the line of shining headtorches through the glaciers to reveal a stunning view over the whole of Moshi, a city in Tanzania, summiting on Christmas Day. It’s safe to say it was a Christmas I will never forget.
If you aspire to climb Kilimanjaro yourself, life will be a lot easier if you take heed of the following hints, tips and tricks – especially if you’re a woman.
One final note: remember that you don’t have to be the fittest or be kitted out with the most expensive gear to summit the highest freestanding mountain in the world. You need grit, determination, a great team and a bit of luck.
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