Scotland's West Coast and the Western Isles are a firm contender for the most beautiful places on Earth. The Isle of Skye, which sits right in the centre of this stunning landscape, never fails to disappoint. At 1,656km²/639 square miles (five times smaller than Cyprus, Crete or Corsica), Skye's scenery is contrasting and varied. There are pristine white sandy beaches with azure seas that rival anything in the Seychelles (in looks, if not water temperature). Towering mountains and rolling hills punctuate the island with everything from challenging peaks for the most experienced climbers to gentle walks for those looking for adventure at a slower pace.
As the largest and most northerly of the Inner Hebrides, Skye has been occupied since the Mesolithic period and shaped by successive waves of Picts, Gaelic Scots and Norse settlers. The island's jagged coastline – so deeply indented that nowhere is more than 5 miles from the sea – is punctuated by dramatic sea lochs, while inland the Cuillin mountains dominate the skyline. Connected to the mainland since 1995 by the Skye Bridge, the island has seen visitor numbers increase dramatically in recent years, though pockets of wilderness and tranquillity remain for those willing to venture beyond the honeypot sites. With a population of around 10,000 (a third of whom are Gaelic speakers), Skye retains a strong cultural identity rooted in crofting, fishing and the ancient clan system that once ruled these lands.
From challenging mountain scrambles to gentle coastal walks, sea kayaking to wildlife watching, Skye offers outdoor adventures for every level and interest. The island's compact size means you can experience multiple activities in a single day – climbing a mountain in the morning, kayaking along sea cliffs in the afternoon, and watching golden eagles at dusk.
The Cuillin ranges provide some of Britain's finest mountaineering, while gentler walks to the Fairy Pools and Neist Point showcase the island's accessible beauty. Water-based activities flourish here too, with sea kayaking revealing hidden coves and colonies of seals, while the surrounding waters are rich with dolphins, otters and even whales. Cycling routes wind through landscapes that shift from moorland to coast, past ancient castles and through traditional crofting communities. Beyond the outdoor pursuits, Skye's history reveals itself in ruined churches, ancient brochs and sites of clan warfare, while the Talisker Distillery offers insight into another aspect of island culture – the production of that famously peaty single malt.
Whether you're drawn to the adrenaline of technical climbing, the meditative pace of coastal walking, or simply want to immerse yourself in one of Scotland's most dramatic landscapes, Skye delivers year-round.
From easy family strolls to challenging mountain hikes, Skye has walks for every level. The iconic Neist Point has the beauty of being remote enough to be well-known without receiving heavy amounts of footfall. A simple loop of the peninsula should only take an hour or so and is suitable for most fitness levels. Similarly, the Fairy Pools are a well-known route, though in contrast they do receive a fair number of visitors. If these waterfalls are on your itinerary, try to visit off-season when crowds (and midges) are low.
Photographers tend to head north, particularly to capture the otherworldly landscapes of the Quiraing and Old Man of Storr. These trails require more effort in terms of fitness and experience but are certainly worth it.
For a real challenge, try Sgùrr na Stri, a punishing hike with multiple ascents and – depending on your start point – a river crossing. It can be combined with a stay in Camasunary, on the shores of Loch Scavaig.
The Cuillin
The Cuillin are simultaneously some of the most beautiful and the most challenging mountain ranges in the UK. These towering hills can be split into two distinct ranges, located either side of Glen Sligachan.
The Black Cuillin
The Black Cuillin lie to the west of Loch Coruisk and Glen Sligachan, on the southwestern corner of Skye. These are steep, rugged peaks with sharp dark ridges. The dominant rock type is gabbro and to a lesser extent basalt, remnants of an ancient supervolcano that erupted here aeons ago. The Black Cuillin range contains 11 of Skye's 12 Munros (Scottish mountains over 3,000ft), and tackling the 11km ridge remains one of the most difficult yet rewarding challenges a climber can face. Whilst the main ridge is more suited to experienced climbers, there are shorter, less challenging walks, such as paths to the Fairy Pools or exploring Talisker Bay to the west.
The Red Cuillin
In contrast, the Red Cuillin lie to the east of Glen Sligachan and south of Sconser and Loch Sligachan. They consist mostly of granite, a much harder rock which didn't erode to the same extent during the last Ice Age. As a result, they have a much smoother, more rounded appearance, and in certain conditions can appear red, hence their name. The peaks are also much lower than those of the Black Cuillin, so are more suited to walkers or less experienced climbers – though you'll still need to be physically fit.
Long before there were roads, humans traversed via waterways and coastlines. The coast around Skye is a rich haven for wildlife set amongst a backdrop of dramatic clifftops and secluded coves. There's a lot to consider if you sea kayak without a guide – you need to be aware of currents and tides, weather conditions and the whereabouts of jagged underwater rocks. With planning and research, this shouldn't be a problem for experienced kayakers, but for those new to the sport, it's best to go with a trained guide.
South Skye Sea Kayak offers everything from skills courses and private tours to multi-day adventures, while Sea to Skye Xperience is a great place to start for both beginners and those looking for more of a challenge.
Cycling on Skye offers a rare mix of dramatic rugged coasts, rolling hills, and quiet winding single-track roads past moors and waterfalls. Contrasting to road cycling elsewhere, the traffic can be light enough to feel unhurried, especially outside peak season. And thanks to a network of off-road routes, you can also get off the beaten track. But like the rest of Scotland, the weather is ever-shifting, with bright sunshine rapidly giving way to heavy rain at a moment's notice.
For road cyclists cutting their teeth, you might want to try a gentle day amble following the winding road along the southern bank of Loch Harport to join the A87 at Sligachan before heading north to Portree or further on to Uig. Climbing no more than 340m, the route is long enough to get the blood pumping without feeling like an endurance test.
You'll feel the ride around the Trotternish Peninsula far more in your calves and hamstrings as you climb over 900m (2,960ft), but the scenery more than makes up for that extra bit of pain in the legs. This scenic route takes you past some of the most stunning scenery on Skye including the Quiraing and Old Man of Storr. Follow the A87 north to Uig, where you'll join the A855 and loop around the top of the peninsula before heading along the east coast, past the Quiraing and Old Man of Storr, back to Portree.
Beyond Skye's famous peaks and coastal walks lie fascinating historical sites that tell the story of the island's turbulent past. From medieval church ruins to ancient castles, tacksmen's cottages to clan battlegrounds, these locations offer glimpses into centuries of Highland history – from Viking invasions to clan warfare and the Clearances that reshaped the landscape forever.
The island's position at the crossroads of Gaelic and Norse cultures has left a rich archaeological heritage. Iron Age brochs still stand sentinel over sea lochs, while medieval castles mark the territories once fiercely contested by the MacLeods and MacDonalds. Many of these sites occupy spectacular natural settings, making them rewarding destinations in their own right, combining historical interest with dramatic coastal or mountain scenery.
Whether you're drawn to the romantic ruins of Dunscaith Castle, the blood-soaked history of Trumpan Church, or the quiet melancholy of abandoned settlements, these places provide context and depth to the landscape, reminding us that this wild country has been shaped as much by human drama as by geological forces.
Trumpan Church, Waternish
Travel as far as you can go by vehicle heading north on the Waternish Peninsula and you'll come to the ruins of Trumpan Church. Although a peaceful site today, Trumpan has a long and bloody history. This was where the rivalry between the MacLeods and MacDonalds came to a head. In 1578, as the MacLeods gathered in the small church for a Sunday service, members of the MacDonald clan from Uist (seeking revenge for a massacre of MacDonalds on the Isle of Eigg the previous year) barred the doors and torched the building, killing everyone inside except for one girl who escaped to raise the alarm. The MacLeods caught the raiders before they could leave, and in the ensuing Battle of the Spoiling Dyke, almost the entire MacDonald raiding party was killed. From here there are some stunning walks up to Ardmore Point.
Gesto House, Struan
On the southern edge of Gesto Bay, nestled on the banks of a shingle beach in a region full of ancient brochs and waterfalls, you'll find the ruins of 18th-century Gesto House. This once-grand house served as a tacksman's cottage. Tacksmen were middlemen, a kind of live-in estate agent who would rent a patch of land from local lairds in exchange for receiving rent from tenants on this land. Needless to say, they were not always held in the highest regard. The setting is atmospheric, with the whirl of wind turbines adding a modern counterpoint to this reminder of Highland history.
Dunscaith Castle, Tokavaig
Dunscaith Castle (Dùn Sgàthaich in Gaelic) lies along a winding single-track road in the south of Skye. During late autumn you may be lucky enough to hear the honk of geese as they fly overhead. Although the castle itself is in ruins, enough of it remains to get a sense of what this ancient stronghold would have looked like. You access the ruin via a tumbledown bridge with less than a foot of walkway to negotiate – a visit is not for the faint-hearted! Legend connects the castle to Scáthach, the warrior woman who trained the Irish hero Cú Chulainn in the arts of war.
Finding the right accommodation is key to making the most of your Skye adventure. From Portree's colourful harbour to remote bothies in the shadow of the Cuillin, the island offers options for every budget and style – whether you're after a luxury hotel with spectacular views, a traditional hostel, or the freedom of wild camping under the stars.
The island's accommodation tends to cluster around key settlements, particularly Portree and Broadford, though you'll find hostels, hotels and campsites scattered across the peninsula. For those seeking the most remote experience, bothies provide free basic shelter in some of Skye's wildest locations. Whatever your choice, booking ahead is essential during summer months when the island's popularity can make last-minute accommodation difficult to find.
Portree is both the capital and main town on Skye. It's a picturesque place with colourful houses flanking the harbour, all in the shadow of the hills to the north and Raasay to the east. As a town with a port, the first half of its name has an obvious root, but the second part either comes from the Gaelic word ruighe (meaning slope) or righ (meaning king).
Most of its shops, pubs, restaurants and cafes are concentrated around the few streets in and around the harbour. Hotels and guesthouses are also concentrated here, but there are places to stay all over the town.
Portree Youth Hostels
There are two youth hostels in Portree: the independently-owned Portree Independent Hostel and Portree Youth Hostel, which is part of Hostelling Scotland.
The independent hostel has large mixed dorms of 12 beds at a bargain price, or 6-bed private rooms which work out at a similar cost if sharing with five friends.
Hostelling Scotland offers smaller dorms (4-8 people) alongside private rooms at prices comparable to, if not slightly lower than, the Independent Hostel. Both offer a laundry service and have self-catering kitchens, but Portree Youth Hostel also provides catered meals at low prices.
Hotels
The Cuillin Hills Hotel near Portree and Flodigarry Hotel near Uig on the North Coast are both luxury options. These two hotels do come at a premium, but if you have the money to spend it's unlikely you'll be disappointed. Both have restaurants and bars with spectacular views from the rooms.
Although less picturesque than Portree, the sprawling village of Broadford is an important part of the island. Here you'll find its main hospital along with a post office, large supermarket, hotels, banks, craft shops and all those practical elements which, although mundane, can be essential to a good break.
A superb budget hotel on coastal Skye, east of Waternish and west of Uig. Great prices for couples and small families.
Wild camping is generally allowed on unenclosed land in Scotland as long as campers follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. Skye offers numerous opportunities for wild camping, from coastal spots to mountain glens. Popular areas include the valleys leading into the Cuillin, such as Glen Sligachan, and quieter coastal locations away from the main tourist routes. However, be mindful of the terrain. Skye's landscape can be boggy in places, and finding flat, dry ground for your tent may require some searching. On still summer evenings when midges gather in sheltered glens, exposed ridges and summits can offer more comfortable (if windier) camping spots with expansive views.
For those wanting a more established base, several campsites are scattered across the island, with the highest concentration around popular tourist areas. These typically offer facilities ranging from basic pitches to glamping options and campervan hookups. During peak season (June-August), booking ahead is strongly recommended as sites fill quickly.
Bothies
Like the rest of Scotland, Skye has its fair share of bothies. If you're not familiar with them, bothies are rudimentary forms of free accommodation built for hikers in remote areas. They tend to have a communal room and sleeping area. The sleeping areas have wooden platforms or basic bunk beds; you’ll need to bring camping gear (cushioned sleeping mat and sleeping bag). There are means to cook, so you'll also need to bring your own backpacking stove and gas. There is no electricity or running water, and if you want a fire, bring fuel such as logs or coal.
Camasunary Bothy (NG 517 185): Located on the Skye Trail Stage 5, 13km south of Sligachan Hotel or 6km north of Elgol. A basic bothy with no fireplace, sleeps 16, with great views across to the Cuillin.
Coruisk Memorial Hut (NG 487 195): Situated at Loch Coruisk beneath the Black Cuillin. This bothied is maintained by the Scottish Mountaineering Club and requires a challenging approach on foot or by boat.
Skye's position on the Atlantic edge of Scotland, combined with its diverse habitats, from sea cliffs and sandy beaches to mountain summits and remnant ancient woodlands, creates a haven for wildlife. The surrounding seas are particularly rich, attracting everything from otters and seals to dolphins, whales and basking sharks.
On land, the island supports healthy populations of red deer, while golden eagles and white-tailed sea eagles patrol the skies. The varied terrain also nurtures a fascinating array of plant life, from hardy alpine species clinging to mountain ledges to rare orchids in coastal grasslands.
The waters around Skye are frequented by a remarkable array of marine life. Otters are commonly seen along the coast. Patient observers at locations such as Loch Dunvegan, the coastline around Kyleakin, or the shores near Broadford Bay may spot these playful mammals hunting in the shallows or grooming on kelp-covered rocks. Dawn and dusk offer the best chances for sightings.
Common and grey seals haul out on rocky skerries around the coast, particularly in sheltered sea lochs. You'll often hear them before you see them, their distinctive calls echoing across the water. Good viewing spots include the small islands near Dunvegan Castle and various locations around the coastline accessible by boat trips.
Dolphins and porpoises are regular visitors to Skye's waters, with bottlenose dolphins and harbour porpoises the most frequently sighted species. On rare occasions, visitors may witness 'superpods', where hundreds of dolphins group together, likely following shoals of fish.
Minke whales visit the waters around Skye from May to October, while rarer species including humpback, orca, and even sperm whales are occasionally recorded. The best viewing spots include Neist Point, Rubha Hunish (the most northerly point of Skye), and from boat trips departing from various harbours.
Basking sharks – the second-largest fish in the world – are often seen during summer months, their distinctive dorsal fins breaking the surface as they filter-feed on plankton. Boat operators throughout the island offer wildlife-watching trips that maximise your chances of marine encounters.
Red deer are the largest land mammal in the UK and are mainly found in Scotland, with significant populations on Skye. In summer, deer graze on higher ground with a dark red-brown coat (hence their name). In winter their coat turns darker and slightly grey in colour. The stags grow their iconic antlers each year ready for the 'rut' in late autumn, when these large males do battle for the attention of females. In winter, red deer descend to lower ground in search of better grazing. This is when you'll have the best chance of seeing them up close, though always maintain a respectful distance, especially during rutting season.
Pine martens, though elusive, have a stronghold in northwest Scotland. These members of the weasel family are primarily nocturnal but may be spotted around dawn or dusk in wooded areas. They're incredibly agile, with a distinctive cream or yellow bib on their throat contrasting with chocolate-brown fur.
Skye is one of the best places in the UK to see both golden eagles and white-tailed eagles (sea eagles). Golden eagles, with wingspans up to 8 feet, hunt over moorland and mountains for rabbits, hares and grouse. White-tailed eagles – Britain's largest bird of prey – were successfully reintroduced to Scotland after becoming extinct due to persecution. They prefer coastal areas and can often be seen near Portree and along the island's coastline. Boat operators sometimes attract these magnificent birds by offering fish, providing spectacular photo opportunities.
Buzzards are common throughout the island and are often seen soaring on thermals or perched on fence posts scanning for prey.
Skye's dramatic coastline and offshore islands support breeding colonies of many seabird species. Gannets, with their six-foot wingspan, are dramatic hunters, plunge-diving from height into the sea to catch fish. Puffins nest on offshore islands and can be seen on boat trips to locations such as the Isle of Canna from late spring to early summer.
The coastline hosts colonies of cormorants and shags, while rocky shores are home to oystercatchers, ringed plovers and other waders. Arctic terns, which undertake one of nature's longest migrations from Antarctica to breed in Scotland, are also regular summer visitors.
Inland, you might hear the distinctive call of the corncrake on summer nights in north Skye, though you're unlikely to see one, as these secretive birds hide in long grass. After facing near-extinction, conservation efforts have helped their numbers recover.
Skye's plant life is as varied as its landscapes, shaped by the Atlantic climate, geology, and diverse habitats. In coastal areas, you'll find salt-tolerant species such as sea pink (thrift), sea campion, and Scots lovage. The island is also home to several orchid species, including the heath spotted-orchid, early marsh-orchid, and northern marsh-orchid, which bloom from June through to August.
In boggy areas, look for insectivorous plants like sundews and butterworts, which supplement nutrients from the poor soil by trapping insects. Mountain habitats support arctic-alpine species including mountain avens and purple saxifrage; hardy plants that have adapted to harsh conditions.
Where fragments of ancient Celtic rainforest survive, particularly in sheltered glens and along lochsides, the damp climate creates perfect conditions for rare mosses, liverworts, lichens, and ferns. These temperate rainforests, a globally rare habitat, host species such as tree lungwort lichen and filmy ferns, which give these woods an almost primeval atmosphere.
The moorland landscape is dominated by heather, which paints the hillsides purple in late summer, along with bog cotton, bell heather, and various grasses and sedges adapted to the wet, acidic soils.
One of the most common stories told about Skye and the West of Scotland involves stopping to admire a breath-taking view, only to be attacked by hundreds of tiny biting insects, called midges (‘midgies’ or ‘wee beasties’ to the locals). Whilst you may not be able to completely avoid being bitten, there are ways to minimise the risk.
Time of year: Midge season tends to run from late May until early September, so many choose to travel outside of spring and summer months. The midge forecast offers a reasonably reliable picture of where and when numbers are high.
Time of day and conditions: Midges are at their worst at dawn and dusk, so try to plan your day to be more active at noon. They also aren't fans of sunshine or high winds, so head up into the hills or plan walks for sunny, windy days.
Protection: Always keep the protective mesh section of your tent zipped up. Some choose to wear midge hats, which function much like a beekeeper's suit, protecting the face and head from harm's way.
Repellent: Sprays work pretty well when out and about, while back at camp, coils, citronella and lavender candles all help. Some swear by Avon's Skin So Soft, while others prefer dedicated midge repellents like Smidge.
Fine Dining
Skye Smoke House – Broadford, IV49 9AJ, 07703 021321, skyesmokehouse.co.uk
The Skye Smoke House was created by John Corfield, former chef at both a 3-Michelin Star restaurant and the Ritz. It's a chance to sample both hot and cold smoked salmon just 24 hours after it's been caught. The smokehouse is as much an experience as a place to eat, with a tasting menu and tour of the facility all included in one price. You'll need to book a place in advance. It's advisable to book in groups of four or more during the off-season (September to Easter).
Gasta, Port Righ – Portree IV51 9EU, opentable.com/r/gasta-port-righ-portree
Gasta's kitchen is open from 9am to last food orders at 7.30pm, so it's perfect for everything from brunch and lunch to early evening supper. The pizzas are made in an on-site purpose-built pizza oven, and they serve breakfast pastries, bagels and ciabattas, pizzas and stews, all at reasonable prices.
Light Lunch
Birch – Portree, IV51 9EL, birch.coffee
A great stop for a light lunch. They cater for all tastes with vegetarian and vegan options available. Some seating and takeaway available. They serve breakfast, soups, scrambled eggs, fresh salads, coffees and cold drinks. The place to go if you like a good coffee or a kombucha.
Train
From Inverness: There's no direct train route to Skye. The simplest route is to take a train to Kyle of Lochalsh, then take a Stagecoach or Citylink bus to the island.
From Glasgow: A little more direct – take a train to Mallaig, then the ferry from here to Armadale. Buses (Stagecoach) run from there.
Bus
Direct buses run from Glasgow and Inverness through Scottish Citylink. If travelling from Edinburgh, you'll need to change in Inverness, Fort William or Glasgow.
Driving
The Skye Bridge
The Skye Bridge takes you from Kyle of Lochalsh, a reasonably sized settlement with train station, Co-op, hotels and restaurants, onto the island via the A87, the main arterial route leading to the northeast of the island. This makes most sense if coming from the Highlands on a round trip. It's also the easiest drive, going straight onto main roads rather than winding single-track lanes.
Ferry
Mallaig to Armadale
The ferry runs several times a week (booking in advance recommended) from Mallaig, a port approximately an hour's drive west of Fort William, to Armadale.
Glenelg Manual Ferry
The MV Glenachulish, the world's last manually operated turntable ferry, runs across the Kylerhea Strait between Skye and the mainland. Setting off from a remote part of west Scotland, you may be lucky enough to see eagles, dolphins and otters. There are single-track lanes both on the journey to the ferry and once you are on the island, so this is the route for the more adventurous.
Travelling from other islands:
Flights
There are no direct flights to Skye. If arriving internationally, the most common route is to fly to Inverness, then either take the bus or hire a car.
When to Go
Although weather in Scotland is unpredictable at all times of the year, this is especially true from October to April. Daylight hours are also limited in winter. However, those lucky enough to be in the area during a period of snow and blue skies will find that the steep mountains surrounded by lochs are reminiscent of Iceland or northern Norway.
Summer presents different challenges. Midge season generally runs from May to September, so April is a great time to visit to make the most of longer daylight hours free from midges. Summer can still be very beautiful, but it's important to bring insect repellent and head nets in case you get unlucky with a midge-heavy day. The weather, as always in Scotland, remains unpredictable. Pack layers and waterproofs regardless of the forecast.
